Opening of the new gallery

In May 2008, the V&A opened its newly modernized jewelry gallery named after William and Judith Bollinger, who provided the financial assistance to make this possible.

William Bollinger is the retired co-founder and a limited partner of the hedge fund Egerton Capital LP. His wife, Judith, oversaw the merger of ABG Securities with Sundal Collier in 2001.They both  are based in London and are involved in many philanthropic causes.

The William and Judith Bollinger Jewellery Gallery

Eva Jiricna Architects Limited, London, UK,  won the competition to design the new  gallery that would house the newly expanded collection, that included as many as 400 pieces from the Patricia Goldstein collection.

The showcases are lined in the colour of a very deep red, evoking the rich lining of a precious jewellery box, and also a reminder of the Victorian period during which the Museum was constructed.

A Lecture with Clive Kandel

Patricia Goldstein (1930-2002) was a lifelong New Yorker who combined the passion of a collector with the knowledge of a dealer. She bought her first 19th-century locket at the age of 15. After many years of collecting jewellery, she was persuaded by her husband, Bernie, and her step-mother to set up in business in 1968 as a dealer. She brushed up her French at the Alliance Francaise in New York, and from then until 1986 her visits brought her annually to Europe. She wore two small enamelled American flags on the lapel of her blazer, sustained herself on bananas stuffed into the pockets of her Burberry, and became a familiar face to many dealers in France, Belgium and Britain. At auctions she was a formidable opponent, sitting ramrod straight with her bidding paddle up, ready to take on anyone. In September 2001, following Bernie’s death, and knowing she was terminally ill, she asked a friend, Clive Kandel, a generous donor to the V&A, to make the first approach to the Museum on her behalf. She subsequently wrote offering her collection, explaining that every one of her trips to Europe had “included a visit to the V&A’s jewellery galleries, where I would wander for an hour or two in blissful serenity”. Her wit and determination were in no way diminished by the pain of her final illness, and she completed the arrangements to give her jewels to the American Friends of the V&A a few days before her death in February 2002. Courtesy of the Victoria & Albert Museum London.

Patricia Goldstein 1930-2002

Patricia Goldstein’s collection has taken over 10 years to catalog, and has offered the Museum’s collection many examples of 20th century jewelry that it had lacked. Although the Goldstein collection was rich in fine antique jewelry, Patricia started collecting many rare fine examples of Art Deco to late 1950′s jewels  in the  mid 1970′s until as recently as a month before her death. A diminutive figure, Pat Goldstein frequently wore different period pieces at the same time – the outsized 1930′s Chaumet bangle ( see V&A banner) would be on one wrist, whose hand would have a Georgian diamond emerald ring entwining a size 4 finger. Whilst the other wrist could be wearing a Patek Philippe watch, and the middle finger carrying a Van Cleef & Arpels baguette diamond ‘Rouleau’ ring from 1937. Furthermore, at the same time she could be seen wearing Cartier Paris gold diamond 1955 ear clips and an Imperial Russian diamond spray pin. Her clothes alternated between Brooks Brothers, L.L.Bean and Akris. Her shoes were Ferragamo, purses either Vuitton or Chanel. She was a highly intelligent woman with a self enjoyed notoriety for voicing her opinions. A chain smoker her whole life, she enjoyed nothing better than the company of men, with whom she felt most at ease.

By Clive Kandel
V&A Images Courtesy of the Victoria & Albert Museum, London

Related Posts:

• No related posts.

In France and Belgium the Pâtissier is a pastry chef who has completed a lengthy training process, typically an apprenticeship, and passed a written examination. Often found in partnership with a boulangerie, Pâtisseries are a common sight in towns and villages in France.

Why place a section about Pastries and Chocolates on a site devoted to jewelry and people?

Why not?

Jewels, chocolates and Pâtisseries have in common attractions such as indulgence and beauty.

The Japanese are great admirers of the finer things in life. Throughout the 1980s, it would have been hard not to have seen Japanese tourists in Europe avidly clicking away with their cameras at displays of Pâtisserie and chocolates.

As a self-confessed Pâtisserie-holic, and one with many years of experience and travel, I wish to share reviews and thoughts with readers of New York Jewelry Diary.

Over the coming months, I shall be reviewing Cafe Sabarsky, Maison du Chocolat, Tea and Sympathy, Dallmayr Munich, Ladurée, Dalloyau, Fortnum and Mason, Charbonnel et Walker and many more international venues.

By Clive Kandel

Related Posts:

• No related posts.

Alexandre de Paris prepares the famous Wallis hairstyle. Vintage Madame Gres from Didier Ludot. Jewelry by Clive Kandel. Perfume by Chanel.

The whole event was a brilliant and humorous spoof. My favorite shots are those of Wallis being coiffed by her famous Maître Coiffeur Alexandre de Paris and the ever-thin Wallis grabbing a lobster wearing Mizrahi’s copy of the famous Schiaparelli lobster dress made for Wallis Simpson.Working with Karl Lagerfeld was an enlightening experience. With kind permission of the New York Times. Courtesy of Didier Ludot, Ralph Lauren, Isaac Mizrahi, Bergdorf Goodman, Chanel and all jewelry by Clive Kandel for Magnificent Costume Jewelry.

Wallis as originally posed by Dorothy Wilding Wearing Peal & Lesage top and Clive Kandel jewelry.

The Dook is Questioned. Badgeley Mishka and Clive Kandel jewelry.	Wallis and pugs, accessories from Goyard and Clive Kandel jewelry.	The pugs and WE. Vintage Lanvin by Didier Ludot.
Mizrahi copy of Schiaparelli Lobster Dress and Clive Kandel Jewelry.Lobster Cuisine Hotel Ritz Paris.	Wallis as dressed by Mainbocher.	Wallis and Lagerfeld for Chanel. Place Vendome.

Related Posts:

• No related posts.

The Jewels from the Estate of Lúcia Moreira Salles brought $5.9 Million, bringing a sales total of $30,582,751

Lúcia Moreira Salles was the muse for both Valentino and Coco Chanel, at one point working as Chanel’s exclusive house model. Among the top jewels of the collection were three exquisite gem stones mounted by revered Paris designer JAR – a Diamond “String” Ring set with an oval diamond weighing 16.04 carats, an Emerald and Diamond Ring, set with a cabochon Colombian emerald weighing approximately 27 carats mounted in platinum and purportedly formerly in the private collection of King Farouk of Egypt and sold to Salles by Pat Saling, the rare gem dealer, and a Ruby and Diamond Ring set with a sugarloaf cabochon Burmese ruby weighing approximately 16.30 carats.

My prediction was correct for the results of the two Cartier works of art formerly in the collection of Mrs. Cole Porter and Russian Princess Natalie Paley. The Egyptian-Style Jeweled Scarab Belt Buckle created by Cartier in Paris in 1926 sold for $302,500 and a Cartier Egyptian-Style Lapis Lazuli, Turquoise, Diamond, Black Onyx and Enamel Bracelet made in Paris and dating to 1929 totaled $242,500.

Cartier 'Aladdin' Art Deco Purse. Sotheby's Images

Lot 260, the 1920′s Cartier Paris “Aladdin” Model black enamel and diamond set purse, had originally belonged to the Ranee of Pudukota, and was sold by the Cartier collector and dealer Clive Kandel to Fred Leighton in 1981, who had it re-covered from the original black antelope to black alligator.

_______________________________________________________________________________

Related Posts:

• No related posts.

Sotheby’s London will be selling a collection of jewels formerly belonging to the Duchess of Windsor on November 30th.

This will be Round Two of an ongoing fight for those who desire to be associated with the ex-king and the woman who stole him from the hearts of his people.

There will be 20 lots in the sale, ranging from those of interest to royal memorabilia collectors to magnificent, well-known Cartier jewels.

The original sale took place during an era of public vulgar consumption and broke all records, and brought some financial and public disgrace. More about the public – and private – disgrace later on.

We shall soon see how 2010 values the Duchess’s jewels compared to 1987. That year seems like another age, which it really was. More about that as well later on.

Clive Kandel will be adding to this column as the days go by, so please do keep checking in.

Unlike the story of The Three Blind Mice, Clive Kandel feels quite unrestrained.

King Edward VII gave up the British Throne and country to marry the twice divorced American socialite Wallis Warfield Simpson in 1936, making them the Duke and Duchess of Windsor. After this the Duke lived for The Duchess of Windsor. He adored her and gave her jewels for every occasion in their life together. Most jewels are larger than life, according to Wallis’ friend Lady Mosley.

On 30 November 2010 Sotheby’s London will sell 20 jewels from the Duchess of Windsor’s jewellery collection. 23 years after the much celebrated Sotheby’s Geneva auction of her jewels in 1987. This auction was a global event in prosperous times and the 214-piece collection fetched a record price of EUR 35 million, seven times the pre-sale estimate. Reflecting the 1987 rage today’s estimates are also completely over the top but will surely be paid. The total sale is expected to bring in around EUR 3 million.

On sale now are jewels that memorialize the most important moments in Edward and Wallis’ relationship. Wallis was greatly admired for her avant-garde style in fashion and jewellery alike. She combined simplicity with whimsy.

Many of the jewels were made by Cartier, two specifically by Cartier’s jewellery director Jeanne Toussaint, the Onyx and diamond panther bracelet designed in 1952, is one of the finest examples of the ‘great cats’ jewels of which the Duchess was an avid collector. The bracelet is expected to fetch 1,000,000-1,500,000 pounds . This articulated cat forms a “stalking pose” when closed around the wrist.

Jeanne Toussaint also created this exotic flamingo brooch, decorated with rubies, sapphires, emeralds, citrines, and diamonds which was bought by the Duchess in 1940. The flamingo brooch was bought for £498,000 in 1987 and is today estimated at £1m-£1.5m.

Another precious jewel is the diamond cross bracelet by Cartier, supporting nine gem-set Latin crosses, each marking significant events during the years 1934-44. The bracelet is expected to raise £350,000-450,000, while it fetched only £200.000 in 1987.

It is a very sweet; every cross has an inscription and a story to it, but not everyone believes Wallis & Edward were the greatest love story of the 20th century.

Sotheby’s David Bennett and historian Hugo Vickers, however, make a splendid presentation below.

Related Posts:

• No related posts.

“As our first jewelry sale of the fall season we are encouraged by the very solid results achieved.  The trends of the past few seasons certainly continue, with strong international interest in both stones and signed jewelry. We had spirited bidding for natural pearls, many of the signed period jewels, and especially for a 1930s Kashmir sapphire ring that soared to ten times its high estimate. The Harry Winston platinum and diamond pendant necklace featured on our catalogue cover closed the sale with an impressive price, over $1.25 million.

Of interest to New York Jewelry Diary were the following lots-

Est. $25/35,000 – Sold for $65,500

Rare elegant Art Deco jewels by Tiffany jewels are rarely brought to market. This fine ring nearly doubled its estimate.

Lot 403 - 18 Karat Gold, Platinum, Amethyst, Turquoise and Diamond Necklace, Cartier, New York, 1949

Est. $30/40,000  -   Sold for $122,500

This necklace is very similar to that bought by the Duke and Duchess of Windsor from Cartier Paris in 1947.

Lot 468 - Gold, Emerald and Diamond Ring, Tiffany & Co., Circa 1915

Est. $50/70,000  -  Sold for $146,500

Another example of the scarcity of Tiffany & Co important period jewelry that more than doubled than the house estimate.

Lot 309 - 18 Karat Gold, Platinum, Rock Crystal, Diamond and Enamel Bracelet and Brooch, David Webb

Est. $40/60,000   -  Sold for $50,000

A perfect example of David Webb jewelry and the price reached is further proof of the steady rise in demand for iconic Webb jewels.

Related Posts:

• No related posts.

Related Posts:

• No related posts.

Related Posts:

• No related posts.

The Belle Epoque love affair with the styles of King Louis XV and XVI gave Faberge, for the most part, a gilded platter on which to serve up his modern creations. The workmanship was unique, but the design inspiration was catering to the fashion of recreating Versailles. Palaces, grand homes and even modest dwellings were Louis-inspired.

Fabergé took advantage of the eighteenth century use and presentation of valuable boxes, which were very much the domain of wealthy monarchs and aristocrats. Under the guise of use as a snuffbox, noblemen would carry their extremely valuable gold boxes as a public symbol of their wealth. Valuable boxes were presented as gifts; the value would be according to the recipient’s rank and importance to the giver. The Imperial Russian Chancellery had a constant supply at hand, ready to be used by the Tsars for this purpose.

Her Imperial Highness The Grand Duchess Vladimir

Miechen is wearing the famous Tiara known as ‘the Vladimir Tiara’ that was bought by Queen Mary, and frequently worn by HM Queen Elizabeth.

Elena, Princess Nicholas of Greece. Miechen's sole daughter.

Princess Elizabeth Wearing the Tiara in her Mother's, Princess Nicholas', Photo. Elizabeth became the Countess Toerring-Jettenbach.

The Rani of Pudukota Wearing Miechen's Russian Tiara.

Photograph Clive Kandel Collection
Reproduction strictly prohibited

The Rani is dressed in Callot Soeurs for a private
presentation at Buckingham Palace to
King George and Queen Mary.

This Tiara was bought from Miechen shortly before her death
by the Raja. Miechen had told him that she was sure that
the Bolsheviks would be beaten and she would return home.

According to period witnesses, Grand Duke Vladimir’s German-born wife, the Grand Duchess Vladimir, Marie Pavlovna, was “the” lady of Europe and her Court at the Vladimir Palace outshone that of the Tsar and Tsarina. She purchased jewels from Bolin and Cartier and boxes and other delights from Fabergé. In return, because of her exalted status as the leading lady of St. Petersburg, she and her husband the Grand Duke received Fabergé objets and boxes from the Imperial Family.

Miechen's three granddaughters, Olga, Elizabeth and Marina.

The Grand Duchess was born a Duchess of Mecklenburg-Schwerin. She married the third son of Alexander II, Grand Duke Vladimir, in 1874 and they produced four surviving children. For the purpose of this story, the most important child was their sole daughter, the Grand Duchess Elena Vladimirovna. Elena married Prince Nicholas of Greece and Denmark in 1902 and they had three daughters. Simplification of the reproductive habits of this immense family is necessary unless you are very well acquainted with the Almanach de Gotha. At some point one could run the risk of the family tree reading like the Old Testament — this one begat that one and that one begat this one.

Princess Olga with her daughter, Princess Elizabeth

HRH Princess Elizabeth, daughter of Olga and mother of Catherine Oxenburg

Suffice it to say, the Vladimir jewels and wealth were enormous, as were the Grand Duchess’s style and grandeur. Before the overthrow of the Imperial Monarchy, Miechen (the German diminutive family name for Marie) plotted and planned against the Tsar, and especially the German-born Tsarina. In spite of all the back stabbing and grabbing, the sole winners were the Bolsheviks, and soon the Romanovs were either hovering around the Caucasus waiting and debating or getting slaughtered.

Princess Marina of Kent

Photograph Clive Kandel Collection
Reproduction strictly prohibited

Wearing the Rani of Pudukota’s Tiara that had been bought from Miechen in
1920, then resold by the Rani in 1934 for 2,000
pounds to the City of London Corporation
to be given as a wedding gift to Marina.

Most of Marina’s old  diamonds came from her mother, Princess Nicholas.  Miechen was taking her time about departing Russia. She was hoping for a turnaround of events which would enable her to return to St. Petersburg. Finally, in order to avoid being publicly deloused with fellow fleeing refugees, she waited until that risk was past and left for Venice in February 1920. During her waiting period, the shrewd Grand Duchess had engaged a British Diplomatic Courier, Albert Stopford, to gain access to her jewelry collection in Petrograd and deliver it to London for safekeeping.

Now the cloak and dagger part of this tale finally starts. Unbeknownst to Miechen, a Professor Bergholz, in the spirit of the Scarlet Pimpernel, had managed to get into the Grand Duke’s apartment in the Vladimir Palace to see if there were any valuables he could rescue. Opening sealed drawers in the dressing room, he discovered an enormous collection of Faberge boxes and cufflinks which he stuffed into two pillowcases he had ripped off the Imperial bed. Obviously a gentleman, Bergholz delivered the stuffed pillowcases, simply marked in ink as the property of the Grand Duchess, to the Petrograd Swedish Legation for safekeeping.

HM Queen Mary wearing Miechen's Tiara.

If Professor Bergholz had brought the ‘found’ Fabergé to London, rest assured Queen Mary would have acquired the best pieces for the Royal Collection.

Sweden severed diplomatic relations with Russia in 1918, and presumably all contents of the Legation were moved to Stockholm through Finland. Moving house can be very messy and things get lost and mislaid. But this was 1918 and there must have been chaos and turmoil. Two stained stuffed striped pillowcases were probably shoved into a trunk, joisted onto a sleigh and jostled off to Stockholm to be dumped in some bureaucrat’s filing cabinet or laundry bin. Miechen never knew, nor did any surviving members of the family, about the abandoned Fabergé.

Settling in her home in France, being German and practical, she started to sell some jewels; however, she was tired, worn out and sick. The Grand Duchess Vladimir died in Contrexeville in 1920. Her superb jewels were divided amongst the four children. Until the advent of modern Christie’s and Sotheby’s, and even in my own experience, families divided jewelry by color. Grand Dukes Boris, Cyril and Andrei and Elena, Princess Nicholas of Greece, chose what they wanted. Queen Mary bought the famous looped tiara from Princess Nicholas and Barbara Hutton ended up with the famous emeralds which now belong to Elizabeth Taylor. Remember, you can’t take your jewels with you when the reaper comes. Just a reminder for those of you with avaricious thoughts.

Mothers and daughters often have a “jewelry relationship.” Mothers buy jewels using the excuse that one day the daughter will have them and the daughters wait for the Mother’s jewels for various reasons. Miechen’s daughter, Princess Nicholas of Greece (Grand Duchess Elena) had three daughters: Olga married Prince Paul of Yugoslavia, Elisabeth married Count Carl Toerring-Jettembach and the most well known, Princess Marina, married the Duke of Kent. A few well-known descendants of these well-married daughters are HRH Prince Dimitri, grandson of Olga; HRH Princess Alexandra of Kent, daughter of Princess Marina; Lord Frederick Windsor, son of HRH Prince and Princess Michael of Kent (Marina’s youngest son).

HRH Marina Duchess of Kent.

Marina is wearing rubies by Cartier London.
The Duke of Kent bought more jewels than
his brother, the Prince of Wales
(Duke of Windsor). His jewelry spending
was of great concern to his parents,
King George and Queen Mary.

Apparently, in 1952, some honest Swede in the Foreign Ministry decided to break open the red waxen sealed pillowcases. Swedes are reserved, calm, honest and unflappable. The contents were counted, replaced in the old linen and put back where they were found. I can hear Miechen screaming.

Fifty-six years later, January 2009, another honest Swede came across the striped bundles. A general cleaning up was underway and some person had the good idea that perhaps the family should be notified that great-grandmother Grand Duchess Vladimir’s Fabergé was ready to be picked up. Imagine that this was happening to you but let’s not play “Antiques Roadshow”….it’s highly unlikely.

Heinrich Graf (that means Count) von Spreti of Sotheby’s Munich was the first specialist to examine the treasure, as agreed by the heirs of Miechen. Putting greed aside if you can, for one moment please, this was an astounding find. About one hundred and ten items, Fabergé Imperial boxes, gem-studded cufflinks, all of the greatest importance, hitherto unseen, were going to be sold at Sotheby’s in London. I’m sure the heirs were delighted that the spirit of the Grand Duchess was now at rest and perhaps slightly pleased about the financial windfall.

Very honorably, the heirs have issued a statement that in memory of the Grand Duke and Duchess Vladimir, three charitable donations will be made from the funds from the sale. Miechen’s home in Schwerin will receive funds for restoration of the church, an official biography will be published and, finally, the St. Vladimir Chapel in Contrexeville will be endowed.

The final amount of the sale at Sotheby’s London 30 November 2009 fetched over seven million pounds, or 12.5 million dollars. The most magnificent boxes fetched around one million dollars each. These amounts are a sign of the strange times we live in, as well as the deep desire within Fabergé collectors to possess.

Sic Transit Gloria Mundi.

HRH Prince Dimitri of Yugoslavia.

Miechen’s great grandson, always bearing a smile and now ‘in the pink’.

HRH Princess Alexandra of Kent

Wearing a pin belonging to her great grandmother, Miechen.

Lord and Lady Frederick Windsor, Miechen's great-great-great grandson and daughter-in-law.

HM Queen Elizabeth. Her Majesty is wearing Miechen's Tiara, keeping it safe and sound.

Related Posts:

• Givenchy for Audrey Hepburn Fetches $100,000
• The Three Blind Mice
• The Prince, Cartier and I
• Faberge, A La Vieille Russie and Wartski